Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Similarities and Differences between Taipei, Beijing and Stockholm

Now that we have moved to another country I have a feeling that every new place we visit Jake and I will talk about if we think we could move there.  We had that conversation in Taipei and Beijing and I'm guessing we will have it again in Amsterdam.  Taipei was a maybe.  It felt really safe, the weather was nice but the 13 hour time difference was hard.  Beijing was a no.  It was very busy and the smog really bothered me.  Plus you can't access Facebook while in China.  I realize that sounds really silly but Facebook has really helped me keep in touch with friends and family since we moved.  I use Facebook chat daily to talk with friends.  I'm glad we visited Beijing but I can't imagine living there.

Here are some of the similarities and differences between Taipei, Beijing and Stockholm.
Public Transportation
In Taipei the metro was very easy to use.  It was actually easier to use than Stockholm for a couple of reasons.  They had lots of information in English and thee exits for the metro were very easy to figure out.  There were maps and signs telling you what exit you should take to get to different things.  
This tells you what you can find at each exit.
This map shows you the metro stop and then what is around the stop.  I don't know why all cities with metros don't do this.  It is so helpful!

Another map with the metro centered on the map showing you what surrounds the metro station.  The exits are also numbered on the map so you know which one to take and be on the correct part of the street.

There were more exits our of metro stations in Taipei than in Stockholm but the exits were easier to use.  I really wish Stockholm had maps or signs labeling which exit to use. There was more security in Taipei at the metro stops than there is in Stockholm.  In the bigger stations they usually had a guard or two working making sure you followed the rules getting on and off the metro.  They had whistles that they would blow when the doors were closing. 
 
There were lines on the floor showing you where to line up to wait for the train.


There were screens as you waited for the trains that told you how many minutes until the next train, the weather forecast, announcements, etc.
They had priority seating on the metro if you are elderly, pregnant, with a child or disabled.  You could even get a sticker to wear just so everyone knows that you get to sit in those seats :).  I didn't see anyone wearing a sticker while we were there.
The metros in Stockholm and Taipei were really quiet.  Hardly anyone talks to each other and if they do it is usually pretty quiet.  I haven't been on many metros in the US but I'm guessing they aren't as quiet.  Maybe they should get a sign like this one.

This isn't a great picture but inside each train was a map that lit up telling you which way the train was going and what station the train was heading towards.
This picture is a little blurry but on the wall next to me is a flying squirrel :).
One of the metro stations in Taipei.
There are 17 metro lines in Beijing.  There were only 2 metro lines before 2002.  All of the rest have been added in the last 11 years.  10 Million people use it on average during the week.  Riding the metro in Beijing was really stressful.  There were times when people couldn't get on or off when they wanted too and they got split up from their group.  After Jake and I saw that we decided to come up with a plan in case that happened to us.
 To compare, there are 5 metro lines in Taipei and there are only 3 metro lines in Stockholm.  We typically  only use one line in Stockholm and that gets us to most of the places we need to go.
Beijing also had nice maps to show the exits.
Bathrooms
Every metro had public bathrooms you could use.  I felt like there were bathrooms everywhere in Taipei.  Some bathrooms even had a real time electronic board outside the restroom telling you which stalls were available and which ones were occupied.  That seemed like a little much to me but I guess it is helpful.  Stockholm is a different story.  It is very hard to find a public bathroom in Stockholm and there are no signs telling you if they are available :).  There were also breast feeding rooms at most metros in Taipei.

 
Women's restroom real time display.  Seems like a little too much info but maybe some people find it helpful.
The bathrooms in Taipei and Beijing were different.  After seeing them I remembered hearing about squatty potties at some time in my life but I didn't know they would be in Taipei   That took a little while to get used to.  In Taipei there were usually a few regular toilets in the public bathrooms but there weren't as many regular toilets in Beijing.  If the public toilet in Beijing was near a popular tourist destination then they might have one or two but most of the time those weren't an option.  

*I’m about to go into more detail than some might want to read about toilets so skip the next two paragraphs if you don’t want to read about that :).  

The stalls are really small for squatty toilets and they tend to be really dirty, in my opinion.  It could be that there are lots of people using them who don’t know how to and therefore the floor is dirtier than normal but I can’t figure out how the floor wouldn't get dirty even if you are used to using them.  By dirty I mean, it is covered in pee, either because someone missed or because it splashed out since there really aren't any walls on the toilet.  The toilet is in the middle of the stall so you have to be careful when you walk in that you don’t step into it.  I was always carrying a backpack so I had to go into the stall and turn around carefully, without stepping in the toilet, and then hang up my backpack before attempting to go to the bathroom.  There are places to put your feet on either side of the toilet but for a while I wasn't sure which way to face.  I eventually figured it out but even knowing which way to face didn't help much since the toilet is directly in the middle of the stall and you don’t have much room.  Some stalls had a hand rail to help you squat but most did not.  I can’t figure out how you are supposed to go to the bathroom without getting pee on your shoes from the pee on the floor or if pee splatters out of the toilet. (TMI, but I warned you.)

In Taipei and Beijing you don’t put your toilet paper in the toilet.  I have done that before when traveling to Mexico but I didn't realize other countries did that too.  There are trashcans for toilet paper right next to the toilet.  In Taipei you were supplied with toilet paper but in Beijing you had to bring your own.  I didn't realize that and it took me a few times to realize that they don’t give you toilet paper; I thought they were just always out.  Thankfully I always carry Kleenex with me.  In Beijing and sometimes Taipei they usually don’t have paper towels or anything to dry your hands after you use the restroom which means the floors by the sink are usually really wet and that bothered me.  To sum up the bathroom situation, I liked how available they were in Taipei and the ones there were typically really clean.  The ones in Beijing weren't very clean and I definitely wished I was a boy a few times.
 
A Squatty Potty
Taipei 
I really enjoyed our time in Taipei.  I felt very safe there.  It was easy for me to walk around and explore on my own.  I never felt unsafe even at night walking to meet Jake and his coworkers for dinner.  It helped that one of his coworkers that lives there reassured me that it was a really safe city to walk around in, even at night by myself.  We also bought a SIM card for me for the week.  It was about $10 and I had a local phone number so I could text or call Jake at the Taiwan office or on the cell phone they had for the week.  Plus I also had internet on my phone which really helped me to figure out what metro to take and where to meet Jake for dinner.  I don’t know what I would do without technology sometimes. 

Food
I enjoyed most of the food we had in Taipei.  In general, I am a very boring eater.  I like to find my one favorite dish at each restaurant and then I get that every time.  I like things to be predictable.  I like knowing what it is going to taste like before I get it, it helps me enjoy the food more.  Jake couldn't be more opposite of me when it comes to food.  He hardly ever orders the same thing at a restaurant even if he loves it because there could be something else on the menu that is even better and he has to find it.

Before coming on this trip Jake mentioned that he was worried for me about what food I would be eating.  Jake is NOT a worrier.  I can’t think of a time in the last almost 12 years of being together, that he has ever told me to worry about something.  One of his favorites sayings when I tell him I am worried about something is, “Don’t worry about that, worry about something else.” In fact, I thought he was joking when he told me to worry about the food and I just brushed it off.  But as we were on the plane headed to Taipei he mentioned it again.  That is when it really sank in with me, maybe I should be worried.  I thought he was joking but it turns out he wasn't.  Then I started to freak out.  I knew I liked Chinese food and I thought I would be fine.  Since it was a little too late to do anything about it I was just hoping I had packed enough granola bars, dried fruit and crackers to make it through the trip.

For most of the trip I was fine with the food we had.  I started to struggle towards the end.  When we were in Taipei Jake’s coworkers who live in Taipei arranged our dinners every night.  They picked a restaurant and made reservations.  They also took care of all of the ordering.  Sometimes they would ask us what we would like to eat but most of the time they ordered before we even realized it.  I did let them know that I don’t like fish or seafood.  They were very kind and told me what each thing was before I tried it so I didn't eat any fish.  

 We had lots of different kinds of Taiwanese, Chinese, and Japanese food during our trip.  For me, most of those types of food all get lumped together as “Chinese food.”  His coworkers also enjoyed getting really traditional dishes, that even most Taiwanese people don’t eat, just to have us try it and to see our reactions.  I got pretty tired of that and didn't try most of it.  Jake tried pretty much everything we were offered during the trip.  Towards the end of our week in Taipei I was getting pretty worn out eating the same kind of food.  I felt like I was having the same thing every day for lunch and dinner for 10 days in a row.

When we went to Beijing we were on our own for picking the restaurants and ordering the food.  Thankfully Tim, Jake’s coworker from Stockholm, who is half Chinese and half Swedish can speak and read the language.  Some of the menus had English and were easy to order from but some didn't have any English at all.  Tim would sometimes order for us or he would ask what we wanted and then order it for us.  By the end of the trip I was done with Chinese food.  I had more fried rice than I thought possible in one week. 

One of the things I really had a hard time understanding was stinky tofu.  It was really popular in Taiwan but they also had it in Beijing.  It is tofu with the worst smell possible!  Apparently, it tastes like regular tofu but just smells awful.  Lots of people sell food along the street in both Taiwan and Beijing and you can always tell if stinky tofu is available.  It made me lose my appetite so quickly. Tim had it a couple of times and Jake had it once.  I tried to stay upwind when they were eating that.

Other random tidbits
In Beijing kids wear diapers until they are one and then they wear pants with a split in the middle so they can squat to go to the bathroom whenever they need to.  While we were eating dinner one night a kid squatted on the sidewalk and just started peeing.  I'm not sure how common that is but I did see several kids with splits in their pants.  I realize the split pants must be normal for their culture but it took me by surprise seeing little kids with their private parts hanging out of their pants.

One not so pleasant habit we noticed in Beijing was how much they spit.  You could be walking down the street and someone would just hock a loogie.  We heard this multiple times a day. At least 15 times in a day you would hear that while walking around.  I did not handle that well.

Stores
In Taipei and Beijing stores were open so much later than they are in Stockholm.  In Stockholm stores close anywhere between 4 pm and some are open until 8 pm.  On the weekends they close even earlier.  When Jake and I first moved to Stockholm we had a really hard time getting things done after Jake got home from work since store close so early.  In Taipei and Beijing stores were open all hours of the day and night.  I'm not sure some of them even close.  In Taipei stores typically open at 10 or 11 am and then close at 10 or 11 pm. In Beijing it looked like most people who owned stores also lived in their store, or maybe behind their store.  Tim told us that people will stay there all day and night and just sleep when they don't have customers and then wake up when someone walks in.  We saw people getting haircuts at 7 am and 11:30 pm.  On our last night in Beijing we tried to get a foot massage after dinner.  We started walking around to different spas around 9:30 pm on a Sunday night.  We found a place we liked but we couldn't get a massage until 10:30 pm because they were booked until then.

I did a blog post after moving about people speaking English in Stockholm.  Even though pretty much everyone speaks English there isn't much written in English. Menus, signs, and metro information is almost always in Swedish.  In Taipei and Beijing they have English on most menus, signs and in metro stops however very few people speak English there.  That was really confusing.  Since I was reading so much English I would forget they didn't speak the language and I would go up to people and start asking questions before I realized they couldn't understand anything I was saying.  I think I prefer traveling with people who can speak English over having it in writing.  Thankfully Tim was with us and he could help translate things that would couldn't figure out on our own.

Hope you enjoyed reading all about our time in Taipei and Beijing.  We are heading to Amsterdam next! 

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Beijing, China: The Great Wall of China

We decided to visit China on our way back from Taiwan because in order to visit China you have to have a visa or if you have a layover in China you can stay there for less than 72 hours without a visa.  We thought this would be the perfect time to explore Beijing since we had a layover there.

On our last full day in Beijing we visited part of the Great Wall.  We booked a full day tour through our hotel.  The tour left at 7:20 am and came back at 4:00 pm.  It was supposed to take 2-3 hours to get to the wall and then we had 3 hours to walk around the wall before having lunch and heading back.  The tour also included an English speaking tour guide.

We woke up early, met our driver and headed to the van.  When we got to the van I started to get a little worried.  It didn't seem like our driver knew much English and the van was pretty run down and didn't have seat belts.  The tour we signed up for looked like it was a pretty legit tour but this didn't look like I thought it would.  We drove to another hotel to pick up 6 more people.  Then we started driving again.  After about 15 minutes we stopped on the side of the road.  Our driver said we were waiting there for a bigger bus.  Thankfully our ride that morning was just to get us to the bigger tour bus that was actually taking us to the wall.
Here is the van that picked us up.
We sat on the tour bus waiting for others to arrive before we headed to a couple more places to pick up people.  By the time we actually headed to the Great Wall it was about 8:45.  So the first hour and a half of our tour was picking up people.  That was frustrating but we were on our way and thankfully it was a very clear, sunny day.

We did have an English speaking tour guide.  On our way to the wall he gave us some history about the wall and told us where we would be going that day.  Jake slept a little on the way there but I had a hard time getting comfortable and didn't end up sleeping.
Here is a map of the part of the wall we went to.
We took a gondola lift up to the wall.  You can walk up but it takes about 40 minutes of walking up steps to get there.  The grey part of the wall on the map is the old part of the wall that hasn't been restored so it is not open to the public.  We did walk out on that part of the wall a little ways but it is very overgrown.  If you walked the whole section of the wall on this map it would be about 8 km to the last tower and back.  Our guide didn't recommend doing that.  I thought our guide would go with us to tell us about the wall while we were on it but he didn't.  He told us a few things while we were on the bus and he told us to be back at Mr. Yang's Restaurant at 1:30 and then just let us go.
Heading up to the top.




Henrik went with us on the tour but Tim stayed behind.  Tim lived in Beijing for about three years so he had been to the wall already and wasn't interested  in going with us.
We had an awesome view on the ride up to the Great Wall at Mutianyu.

 I have seen pictures of the wall before but in those pictures the wall didn't have steps.
There were a few sections that were really steep and we had to take a couple of breaks before we made it to the top.  After we realized how many stairs we had to walk on the wall I was really glad we didn't walk up to the wall.


This is a small section of the Great Wall.  In this picture you can see about 4 km of the total 6000 km.  The first wall here was built 1400 years ago, and was upgraded to its current form in 1568.  It was most recently restored as a tourist site in 1986.

This part of the wall was built in the 1500s and has not been restored in modern times.  It is just as wide and as tall as the other parts, but it's hard to tell because of the overgrowth.
It was a little bit windy but I was thankful that the sky was so clear unlike the day before.
A section of unrestored wall from the 1500s.
Inside one of the watchtowers.




Some more steep stairs but at least this time we were going down.


If you look closely you can see me in the middle of the picture.
We rode toboggans to get down.  It was awesome!
I wish they would have had a fast one and a slow one because we got stuck behind some people that were going pretty slow but it was still a lot of fun.
 We had lunch at Mr. Yang's Restaurant and then had about an hour and a half ride back before we started dropping off people.  Jake and I decided to head back to Tiananmen Square to see it on a clear day. Tiananmen Square is the third largest city square in the world and was the site of several important events in Chinese history.  It is right across from the Forbidden City which we saw the day before but it was so smoggy we couldn't see the square.  By the time we got to the square it was closed for the day and we couldn't enter it but we could still take some pictures.
National Museum of China



Trying out one of their outdoor workout areas.
On our last night we had Peking duck for dinner.  It was SO good!
This was probably one of our best meals we had during the trip.


Before we headed to the airport to fly back to Stockholm we grabbed some breakfast and headed up a hill that overlooked the city.   
We bought some fruit at this market.
They had fruits and vegetables on the first floor.
They had meat on the second floor of the market.
Walking through this market made me thankful that Stockholm has grocery stores that are very similar to where I'm used to doing my grocery shopping.   I feel like this trip really helped me realize how similar Stockholm is to the United States.
A fabric store.  Mom, I took this picture just for you!
Grabbing breakfast from a food cart.
This street has lots of shops selling food, clothes, home supplies, etc.  We bought food for breakfast at a couple of these stores.

 We ate some of our breakfast at the top of a hill in Jingshan Park looking over the city.  There is still some smog, but this was a very clear day compared to Saturday.
We had a great view of the city.



The Forbidden City

Writing with water on the pavement in Jingshan Park.
 This lady was writing different characters with each hand simultaneously.  On Monday morning the park was filled with elderly people, many of them were practicing Tai Chi for exercise.
Beijing Capitol Airport Terminal 3.  This is the sixth largest building in the world by area.  It was impressive and a great airport to be in for several hours if needed.
A quick lunch before heading home.  Can you figure out which meal was mine?
I had to get another salted caramel mocha since we don't have a Starbucks in Stockholm.  (We have one coming in the spring.)
Flying over China.

It was a short trip to Beijing but we were able to see lots of interesting things.  Here is one more post comparing public transportation and other things in Stockholm, Taipei and Beijing.  Here is the first post about Beijing.
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